Liveability - 8.7/10
I can, and would, live here in a heartbeat. Give me a western salary and I'll pick Istanbul over NYC (for a few years). The food here is insane; the tastiest I've had outside of LA (what it lacks in ethnic cuisine it makes up for in kebaps. Points knocked off the lack of pork; and of course, I'm now assuming that baby spinach leaves are like marsupials -- endemic only to Cali (which I not conclude that Los Angeles has the best food in the world -- produce, ethnic arrayment, Mexican, soul, and affordability...because you can have it in a lot of cities...but definitely for not as cheap. Sushi, for example). I stayed at a nice apartment -- 2 bedroom, 1 1/2 bathroom, marble everything, hardwood floors, securexd entry, crown molding, balcony, in a fucking badass location (2 blocks from the metro, major bus stops and the biggest mall in all of Europe) and it cost $600 USD. Fuck me please and call me Balki. I walked around the city and saw one cat all decked out, wearing a t-shirt that read, "Turkish Underground Rap;" and though there is no real hip hop scene here; I know it'd be easy to create it.
The city is old, new, modern, somewhat cosmopolitan and neighborhoody at the same time. In a 30 minute bus ride I noticed that Istanbul has many parts Brooklyn, Hollywood and Times Square (the latter two might not be a good thing, but there's no denying the energy), 3 Street Promenade (that extends 4 times longer and has alleyways with dark cafes and bars with outside seating, fresh seafood getting cooked up, produce and cheap goods on sale), and a Silverlake/Los Feliz vibe.
A week before I got here, they found a live bomb in the metro. The YKK (militant, Kurdish terrorist group) threat is very present -- X ray machines and metal detectors for the shopping mall. But, for real, to me it only gives the people even more reason to be happy for each given day and make them live each one like it's their last. It sucks and all, but you really do take on a different mentality when there's that kind of presence. Without a western salaary, I'd make the liveability a 6.5/10; but the helpful people and TBWA/Istanbul's numero uno reputation would really just make me happy to live here.
Nightlife - 7.3/10
A lot of decent acts come through Istanbul so there are still opportunities for live music. The clubs are mostly gaylectronic but I know there are rock joints out there; no hip hop though. Still, just chilling and spending the night drinking Turkish coffee, playing backgammon and smoking water pipes (hookah) can be very relaxing. The raki (liqueor similar to Jager) is very refreshing in the heat and makes up for their donkey piss beer (Efes). It ain't cheap to drink here, and some definite points off for not being able to do in the streets.
Culture - 6.5/10
Shit, a lot of things here are foreign to me, so the novelty of the city wouldn't wear thin anytime soon. I saw some street art but not really. The city ranks higher than most others in culture because of their big bazaars and old mosques and what not. I have to give credit when the city is divided into "Old Istanbul" and "New Istanbul." But really though, no cutting edge music scene and not too many "out of the box" thinkers amongst their youth. Really Roe? How the fuck do you know? I don't. Pay to prove me wrong and I'll go back there; anytime, my friend!
People - 9.7/10
When I travel to foreign places I always take into account the external factors (economy, political mindset, years of tradition, historic turmoil, etc.) to bring some perspective as to how people get to where they are. For example, Ukrainians are pushy in line because they had to fight for anything they can get (or they would starve) during the communist days, the British being so cold and better because their ancestors weren't adventurous enough to leave for Australia/America (gotta credit an Aussie for that one), or why Orange County people are the way they are (and why it should be a testing ground for the next nuclear warhead).
But given that Turkey is still very much a poor country and life in Istanbul is as difficult as it is congested, the people are still very nice, helpful and quite happy. It was so infectious that after a few days, I was giving out directions and pointers to foreignors and even other visiting Turks. I haven't even left the city yet (in time of this writing), nor have I met every Turk, nor has every Turk been nice to me, but I've had enough encounters with them to know that the countrymen are a good bunch of people:
- Vendors - not too much hustling. Many times they offer you to sit down and join them for tea/lunch without any obligation to buy. Seriously, it's like, "Hey, just take a look if you don't mind and come back if you're interested." A much more evolved and civilized way of peddling to tourists.
- I had a funny situation with a taksi driver. I was going home by myself at 4:30 in the morning (why do I always go home "by myself," damnit?) and greeted the driver with an As-Salāmu ‘Alaykum (Arabic for "Peace be upon you"). He was impressed, but still managed to circumvent the entire city to rack up a hefty toll. I called him out on it and said that I knew what he was doing and that he was ripping me off. He denied any wrong doing. I countered saying, "That's fine. But I know, and Allah knows." Ha! He ended up charging me a lot less for than it was supposed to have been and wished me a farewell.
- Bus Stop Guy - I got lost, asked someone where I was supposed to go. Not only did he confirm with the bus driver, he bypassed his own stop so that he could ensure I got off at the right one, and asked the bus driver to stop in the middle of the road so that I could get off. And they both did it willingly. How amazing is that?
- Pulled over speeding -- I got clocked at 103 kmh on a rented scooter on this outstretch of highway in Cappadocia. I was waved to pull over and, in crippled Turkish, explained to him that the speedometer wasn't working (truth), I was a student (false) and that I wouldn't do it again (true intention). I then amused him and his comrades with the limited Turkish I did know and he just said, "Have a very nice day" with the warmest smile (not even being a dick about it like the cops in the U.S. would be when they say that, as if you owed them a handjob or something).
- Panoramic View Guy - along my scooter adventure I came across a scenic viewpoint for a panoramic view that charged $3 lira to get in. I greeted him in Turkish, asked how he was doing, told him I didn't have any change, and he just waved me through. That granting wave must be Turkish for, "Fuck it. Get on in."
- Gonca, Ceylan (and all the other folks at TBWA/Istanbul) are really the true gems of the country. I adore Gonca and would giver her the royalty treatment should she ever make it out to the states.
Good public transport (though no all-night service), various neighborhoods and lifestyles to choose from, good food, they tend to like Asians!
CONS
No pork. Lack of ethnic diversity and ethnic food. Hummous proved to be hard to find (because it's actually from Eastern Turkey) as well as Tabbouli and Falafel (though it borders Greece). Squat down toilets (they make a case for hemmorhoid prevention but I make a case for dirty, dookie shoes and clothes...and how do you not let pee splash on your butt?
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