The Beginning of the End

Background
I worked at a top-ranked advertising agency for the past 3.5 years and recently just got laid off. I fancied two options: working on another piece of business (doing the same shit) or taking the severance package and running.

It's going to be insane -- I've never traveled overseas as an adult. I've never lived outside of Los Angeles. I've never been away from my family for more than three weeks. I've never even backpacked, and the longest amount of cold I've experienced was during weekend trips to Mammoth -- with aged whiskeys, hot jacuzzis, and winter green to ease my soul after a long day of snowboarding.

Admittedly, I'm scared shitless of what I may be getting myself into; but at the same time, I'm pretty excited to see what I may be getting myself out of.

Contact

The only way to contact me is to leave comments on this blog, Facebook or via email (proefound@yahoo.com). Other than that, I've decided to fuck off.

Wish me lush.

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Smoked Salmon Sandwich

Smoked Salmon Sandwich
Smoked Salmon Sandwich,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Smoked salmon sandwich! The best smoked salmon sandwich I've ever had.

Casa De Amsterdam

Casa De Amsterdam
Casa De Amsterdam,
originally uploaded by proefound.
I'll be staying between here and Blake's for the next two months.

Wieden + Kennedy - Amsterdam

Wieden + Kennedy - Amsterdam
Wieden + Kennedy - Amsterdam,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Look at the free breakfast they provide. Free juices, fruits, and all that jazz. Dude, I'd buy some yogurt and make smoothies...all day, every day.

CITY POWER RANKINGS - PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

MARCH 27, 2008

PRAGUE 2.5/10

LIVEABILITY: 2/10
At first, my ignorant ass thought Prague was nothing more than a store-brand spaghetti sauce -- but now I know it's much more generic than that. Generic in the sense that it's the representation of "Eastern Europe" to most travelers. If I could describe the city in two words I would choose "Prague" and "fuck" -- not necessarily in that order. In all fairness, for some reason I arrived excited but somehow the Earth's magnetic fields pulled against me and I became a hotbed for negative energy. The sights are beautiful, but I'm talking about liveability; and for real, it's not like I live in Los Angeles so that I could see the Hollywood sign every day. Guess what though, Prague is to Eastern Europe what Disneyland is to California. It may be the most enjoyable destination of someone's trip, but the enchantment and joy is more so perceived than actualized. The city is overrun by tourists, and Prague's small size offers no escape from the camera-flash catwalk of fat Floridians and punch-worthy-drunk frat boys. Public transportation is very easy to figure out but it becomes quite the female dog late at night. Last night, I went to a hip hop joint ind it took an effort to get to and fro -- I was in a dark street and had to pretty much decide between waiting 45+ minutes for the tram or walking back through a bunch of dark alleys and empty streets. But in its defense, I had the best vegetarian meal of my life -- fried goat cheese over a bed of steamed spinach, au-gratin potatoes and a mixed green salad...all for about $7. But traditional Czech food, I found to be sucky and I always felt somewhat obligated to apologize to my tongue for subjecting it to sweet gravy and sweaty sausages (dont' be gay). I would never live in Prague (unless it was a jar of spaghetti sauce).

NIGHTLIFE: 7/10
I only went out one night. I made it out to a pretty cool hip hop joint that was unpretentious and just mellow. I was feeling rather crummy due to all the negative energy I was garnering so I just needed some salvation from all the hooplah that preceded. I would give Prague a 1 for someone like me (low key, more niche person that's into underground culture and not into the big discotechs and nightclubs) but I did witness a peculiar phenomenon: walking down the street, I would see massive heaps of people walking out to the clubs -- like 20-80 people, most of them really attractive girls, with like a 4:1 girl:guy ratio. And there were multiple groups, also. They were all young, but I reckon that if I was 21-23, it would've been a blast. But since I'm an oldie, I just can't ever see myself having a wild time in Prague unless it was a full moon and I turned into a werewolf. I'm giving it a 7 from the eyes of a young adult.

CULTURE: 2/10
Historical sites are beautiful, but that isn't necessarily culture to me. The history and beauty of Prague culture got stuck in time; and it remains locked in a plexiglass case for Japanese tourists to model in front of while doing the peace sign. What the hell happened? I mean, Einstein, Kufka, Mozart...they all passed through here before and all the city has to show for it is Bobby McFerrin (the guy that sang "Don't Worry, Be Happy") coming through for a performance? Seriously, what a letdown to hear unevolved, absent minded house music right alongside the Charles Bridge. Though there's graffit bombed trains, the style appears to have never evolved past the 80s. I give it 1 point for the hip hop joint I went to and 1 point for the activism that took place during the end of communism (a student set himself on fire to protest). I admire that notion of sacrificing your life for immortality.

There is this saddening generalization that I've come to notice through my travels --I think Eastern Europeans are doing a disservice to their country by becoming so stagnant and complacent in their placement in society. I mean, years of repression/oppression, earlier stuff from the greats, a fantasy-like landscape, communism ending not so long ago, nothing else to do....create a culture and perpetuate it. I don't know, I have this thing where if I see potential in someone or something, I always try to push it further (even at the expense of my own harmony with it). I see a lot of potential in Prague, and if I were to have grown up here, I would have tapped into all that pent up angst and uncertainty and created an outlet for it. It doesn't have to be the next party destination, but it could definitely be one of those cities that is uber cool without pretension...like Budapest.

PEOPLE: .5/10
Fuck them. Again, I think all the assholes of the Earth just google mapped "tourist punching bag" and found me, but fuck them anyway. They reminded me of the people I encountered in Ukraine, but it's unfair for me to say as much bad stuff as I did about Ukrainians. So, let's recap and contrast. Ukrainian women are eons more attractive, Czech people are just as cold and mean as Ukrainians, but their xenophobia is probably due to a lack of exposure rather than just plain spite and resentment. Democracy is new to them and they're broke people; so I'd want to punch me too if I see someone with an iPod that's worth more than their entire monthly income. As for Czechs, they're exposed to millions of tourists. And without tourism, the country's GDP would probably be lower than Applebee's 2nd quarter earnings. Yet, they still manage to be uninviting, ungrateful and (some were) just plain assholes. I don't have a bad temper at all, I really just try to make things fair and just, but old age and my trip has got me walking around with my tail between my legs. But here, in Prague, the people are so crummy and randomly mean that I was more than happy to bark back at them. Fuck them. I'm sure they're all nice if people really get to know them. And trust that I know everything's so much bigger than what you perceive, I know how to consider contextual situations, etc....but fuck them. There are plenty of people to experience, and I was glad to have left the city as soon as I could have.

PROS
Easy to navigate. If you like Bobby McFerrin and other 80s pop tunes that are now taught to preschoolers, then Prague is for you. I wouldn't kill to live in Prague, but living in Prague would make me kill.

CONS
It ain't Ragu. Nor Prego. And definitely not Budapest.

Pragueski

Pragueski
Pragueski,
originally uploaded by proefound.

Predicament in Prague

Predicament in Prague
Predicament in Prague,
originally uploaded by proefound.
I got put into a predicament here -- walking back from a hip hop joint in the outskirts of Prague at 2:00 am.

1) Wait around forever for the late night tram to come and get me, where people can creep up on me. 2) Walk home and be too tired to defend myself in case I got into some shit. I walked it.

Best Vegetarian Meal - Prague

Best Vegetarian Meal - Prague
Best Vegetarian Meal - Prague,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Really though, the highlight of my trip was this vegetarian meal. Mixed greens with a honey, nut dressing. Fried, encrusted goat cheese on a bed of steam spinach and garlicky-ass au gratin potatoes. Damn!!!!!

Pragueski

Pragueski
Pragueski,
originally uploaded by proefound.

Prague Metro

Prague Metro
Prague Metro,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Prague is small and very easy to navigate...till nightfall!

Czeck (pronounced like "Shit") Food

Sausages, a grilled, unseasoned chicken breast, peppers, half baked bread...all swimming in sweet gravy.

Train Ride - Berlin >> Prague

Train Ride - Berlin >> Prague
Train Ride - Berlin >> Prague,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Great company and beautiful view for the 4 hour ride.

Optical Illusion

Optical Illusion
Optical Illusion,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Solve this and I'll buy you a beer.

Berlin Girls

Berlin Girls
Berlin Girls,
originally uploaded by proefound.
I'd tell you they were kidding, but you wouldn't believe me anyway. I met them at the bar in the gnarly artist loft. Yes, they look young.

In another picture, they showed me the German hand sign for two fingers in the vag. I would post those up, but I'd go to jail.

Vegetarian Indian - Berlin

Vegetarian Indian - Berlin
Vegetarian Indian - Berlin,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Look at the sign; it's dope.

Vegetarian Indian - Berlin

Vegetarian Indian - Berlin
Vegetarian Indian - Berlin,
originally uploaded by proefound.
That's right baby, cook up the best quesadilla I'll ever have.

Vegetarian Indian Quesadilla - Berlin

Best quesadilla I've ever had -- black beans, cheese, guacomole, roasted tomato pepper sauce, green onions, on a toasted chapati. Fuck, the food in Berlin is the best I've ever had (pound for pound, dollar for dollar)

Three Legged Pitbull

Three Legged Pitbull
Three Legged Pitbull,
originally uploaded by proefound.
This was in Berlin. The owner informed me that she lost her leg to cancer

Hip Hop Vault - Berlin

Hip Hop Vault - Berlin
Hip Hop Vault - Berlin,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Very credible hip hop store in Berlin. They know what's up the hip hop over there.

Currywurst - Best Ever

Currywurst - Best Ever
Currywurst - Best Ever,
originally uploaded by proefound.
My favorite indulgence. It's wurst, sprinkled with curry powder; that's basically it. So good, and this joint is known for inventing it.

East Berlin Gallery

East Berlin Gallery
East Berlin Gallery,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Interesting message here.

Berlin Artist Loft

Berlin Artist Loft
Berlin Artist Loft,
originally uploaded by proefound.

Berlin Artist Loft

Berlin Artist Loft
Berlin Artist Loft,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Prints and all that other good stuff was up for sale.

Berlin Artist Loft

Berlin Artist Loft
Berlin Artist Loft,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Bad ass artist loft squat in Berlin.

Never got rebuilt after WWII so it's quite gnarly outside. But inside the 5 story building was this crazy shit. Floors of lofts; with drugs being sold in the hallway, a sculpture garden in the back yard, artwork for sale, a dedicated bar on the 4th floor, a rooftop bar in the summer, prositutes walking around in tight corsets...

This must be where Jesus lived.

Berlin

Berlin
Berlin,
originally uploaded by proefound.
It was nice, but it was cold as fuck!

German Lunch

German Lunch
German Lunch,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Sausage, fried onions and bread. It was good, but I felt all OJ after eating it.

German Girls

German Girls
German Girls,
originally uploaded by proefound.
This is how we ended up there, that night. We met them on the tram en route to another bar.

Berlin Night Club

Berlin Night Club
Berlin Night Club,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Berliners know how to party. This is one of 4-6 clubs that went down in this courtyard. This is the emptiest room, in the emptiest club, at 5:00 am. There were still around 500 in this club alone.

Underground Berlin

Underground Berlin
Underground Berlin,
originally uploaded by proefound.
I met Hannah through couchsurfing and she took us to this crazy ass, reggae concert. That night just wasn't for us...we got rejected from 3 places and 3 other places were at capacity.

Berlin Hip Hop

Berlin Hip Hop
Berlin Hip Hop,
originally uploaded by proefound.
She has LPs, and Mood, on VINYL.

Nunchuck Lessons

Nunchuck Lessons
Nunchuck Lessons,
originally uploaded by proefound.



Hannah was one of the most interesting people I've ever met - kung fu expert, hip hop head, and a painter. That's hierarchy for you guys.

Berlin - View from my hostel window


Hungarian Food

Hungarian Food
Hungarian Food,
originally uploaded by proefound.
It was shitty...fried bread with cold, tomato/mushroom sauce and cold grated cheese.

And you're supposed to eat it with your hands. Dude, it wasn't crab legs or baby back ribs fun to eat; it was eating baby seal sashimi after a plane crash type - hands on.

Mini Sandwiches

Mini Sandwiches
Mini Sandwiches,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Caviar, Brie, and Tuna

Menza - Budapest

Menza - Budapest
Menza - Budapest,
originally uploaded by proefound.
One of the best meals on my trip took place at Menza in Budapest. This pork thing with potato thing and this great caprese appetizer thing for like $20. Very well spent. Great atmosphere and excellent service.

Budapest Citadel

Budapest Citadel
Budapest Citadel,
originally uploaded by proefound.

Esther, My Sweet

Esther, My Sweet
Esther, My Sweet,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Just one of the sweetest girls I've ever met. Just a really good, insanely good vibe.

If there was a game called, "Quick, pick the girl that you think would be the best wife" I'd probably pick her.

War Memorial - Budapest

War Memorial - Budapest
War Memorial - Budapest,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Looking up

Budapest

Budapest
Budapest,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Our hostel was two short blocks away from here.

And the sky, was infinite.

Budapest

Budapest
Budapest,
originally uploaded by proefound.
If you ever have to choose between Budapest or Prague...take Prague!

Budapest doesn't have as many travelers or tourists. So you know, that means less frat boys.

20 Hour Train Ride - Sofia >> Belgrade >> Budapest

On the train I met and befriended an Aussie named Robb. Totally became good friends shortly after.

But also there was this interesting, older American guy in the room next to me. Just your regular American dad type buy. But....he works in Iraq as a biochemist, teaches at a University in the states (that I won't disclose), studies the results of chemical warfare, worked on the John McCain camp, and is in the middle of Bulgaria. He showed up with a Bulgarian woman but left the train alone. And on top of that, he was speaking in fluent German to some guy at the train station. But then he had to catch a train to middle-of-nowhere, Hungary.

For real, I think there's more to him than he revealed

20 Hour Train Ride - Sofia >> Belgrade >> Budapest


Budapest Opera House

Budapest Opera House
Budapest Opera House,
originally uploaded by proefound.
I wanted to do something cultural before I go out and get absolutely schnitzel faced.

I left after the first act. Dude...sung in Italian and the super titles were in ...Hungarian! To me, it was mass confusion.

Welcome to Rubbishville

Welcome to Rubbishville
Welcome to Rubbishville,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Just outside of Sofia, Belgrade is Rubbishville. A goat's dream.

She Made Me Feel Like Shit - Train Station, Sofia, Bulgaria

She Made Me Feel Like Shit
She Made Me Feel Like Shit,
originally uploaded by proefound.
She really did. I was sitting across from here while waiting for the train to Budapest.

I had a McDonald's breakfast sandwich and so I was eating it. She saw me and then decided to bring out her packed meal. In between two pieces of white bread were cut up, uncooked pieces of hot dog meat and mayo.

It sucks, I think of the distribution of wealth in the world and it makes it hard for me to believe that people are inherently good. Rather than making me feel grateful for what I have, it made me feel worse for the things others don't have.

Is this life?

Sofia Train Station

Sofia Train Station
Sofia Train Station,
originally uploaded by proefound.

Bulgaria at Night

Bulgaria at Night
Bulgaria at Night,
originally uploaded by proefound.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

GUIDE TO LOS ANGELES - A Couchsurfing Promise

Hey Vickey,

Thanks for everything. As promised, here is a list of places to go/things to do when you go to Los Angeles. This takes a lot out of me because I like to keep these things secret so that I can share them with my friends, myself. But this list is all cool, good stuff (if it’s touristy, it’s because it’s worth checking out). These are places I would take you and George if I hosted you guys.

Helpful Information

- www.going.com – very cool site to see what’s going on, and who’s going.

- Flavorpill.com – kind of cool, artsy stuff do in NYC and LA.

- Yelp.com – real reviews on restaurants

- Juxtapoz.com – go here to see art show openings. Very cool stuff that you will LOVE.

LOS ANGELES

What to do (must sees). I’ll also give you a day trip you can do and just a list of things you may want to check out. You can look in the tourist guide books for the big stuff, but if you want to get a sense of what the city really has to offer, look no further than me!

DAY ONE

Venice Beach boardwalk - you can rent bikes at the end of the Venice Beach (look for the VENICE pier at the end of Washington Blvd. and ride it along the bike path). There are a bunch of shops at the end of Washington (get an Acai’ bowl at Cow’s End..very good smoothie that will blow your healthy mind, George can go across the street to Hinano CafĂ© and get a cheeseburger…very good and the cheapest you can get around there) There are lots of performers. You can rent bikes and ride them around the boardwalk (street performers, all kinds of stuff, very touristy but you must see it, it’s cool…don’t eat there, the food is shitty). If you want to check out a cool street go to

Abbott Kinney Blvd - it’s a small strip of boutique shops and artsy stuff). It’s only a few blocks off the boardwalk, worth checking out if you ride a bicycle; not worth walking to. You may see Owen Wilson or other celebrities hanging out here, but you may have to look carefully.

Santa Monica Promenade – outdoor shopping area you can walk around and check out. Nothing special but definitely worth checking out. Don’t eat here, either. Make sure you also check out Main Street (Santa Monica). It’s a street of shops just a little east of the boardwalk, you can go there after Promenade and then head up Abbot Kinney and then back to the Venice Pier to return the bikes. Everything I just mentioned can be done on bicycle and can take all day to do. But you’ll really get a sense of my lifestyle over there. Very relaxing! Don’t spend too much time on Santa Monica Pier..it’s full of shit. Also, don’t get scared of the people there, but be a little careful if you choose to go late at night.

- If you really like hamburgers, you can get an expensive (but one of the best hamburgers at My Father’s Office…$15 for a burger but it’ll be the best you’ll ever have. It got listed, many times, as the country’s best burger). If you want a better option, look for a Tommy’s Burgers (on Lincoln and Ocean Park). Very greasy, but cheap and good when you’re drunk. For food around there, California Chicken CafĂ© offers good vegetarian food. Real Food Daily is my favorite vegan restaurant, but expect to pay about $25 for both of you guys to eat). If you’re renting a car, I’d suggest you go to India Sweets and Spices (on Venice and Bagley) for some very very very cheap vegetarian Indian food or to Samosa House (on Washington Blvd. and Inglewood Blvd) for the same thing (price is a little higher but food is a lot better).

- Cool bars around there are The Otheroom – very beautiful people (Abbot Kinney), any on Main Street (I recommend barcopa), or if you want a “dive bar” (something just chill) go to Hinano CafĂ© or The Whaler (beautiful ocean view) – both at the end of Washington Blvd.

If you have enough energy, you can go to The Getty Museum (right off the 405 north). It’s free to get in ($6 parking) but you’ll see a lot of classic art, the architecture and views are amazing. You can watch the sunset there. Or go there first, and watch the sunset at the beach…you need to watch the sunset over the Pacific Ocean at least once. You can drive up PCH for a bit also and park wherever you can to watch the sunset. Even throughout my trip, I think it’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. Everything there can be done in ONE DAY.

If you can do this whole thing on a Sunday, make sure you go to the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market. This would be a great, relaxing day. Bergamot Station in Santa Monica is a haven for art…dozens of galleries all in one place. Often times art shows open up on Fridays/Saturdays so make sure you go to those…DJs..free drinks…good times.

Silverlake/Los Feliz Area

Go to the Silverlake area (off of Silverlake Blvd and the 101…near downtown) and just walk around there for some cool shops and cafes. You can eat anywhere here, kind of pricey but a lot of vegetarian options.

Bars – the cheapest/coolest you can get

- The Drawing Room – cheap drinks

- Good Luck Bar – affordable drinks in a good location

- Big Foot Lodge – cheap and it looks like the inside of a cabin

- The Griffin – a few blocks away from the Drawing Room. Nice atmosphere – two fireplaces and real, mixed crowd of what people in Los Angeles are really like. Not all pretty!

If you go there, you MUST go to WACKO book store (it’s on Sunset or Hollywood). It’s a bookstore that has thousands of cool art books, there’s an art gallery attached to it (La Luz De Jesus). It’s not fine, classic art. It’s cool, low brow art….like the stuff you’ll find in Juxtapoz Magazine (juxtapoz.com)

Hollywood Area

The Farmer’s Market (on 3rd and Fairfax) is a cool place to check out and eat all kinds of food. I was never too impressed with the food, but I always take people there and they all love it. A lot of people in Los Angeles don’t even know about this place but it’s still a destination so you can check it out and spend a few hours there. From there, you can walk around Melrose Ave. – long strip with a lot of cool shops and thrift stores (don’t eat here). Melrose starts at Melrose and Fairfax Ave. I go there just to people-watch, I don’t even buy anything there! It’s artsy stuff, but pricey, but you can always find cool stuff for cheap because you’re a chick with cool style. From there you can go to Fairfax village (just go south/west on Fairfax from the Melrose area). Domiano’s is a good late night place to eat the best calzone you’ll ever have. The wait can be a little long, just get a small one and share with George..it’s big!). The Dime is a cool, little bar down the street from there – very weird because the people are kind of flashy but they play underground hip hop there on Thursdays. There’s Canters Deli there also – it’s a historical landmark in Los Angeles that’s known for their Pastrami sandwiches. It’s bullshit and pricey. Next to the Deli is a tiny bar called The Kibitz Room – they usually have some hardrock bands. My friend is going to open up a bar/coffee shop there soon..hopefully by the time you get there. Let me know if you are interested in that area and I’ll have him take care of you (we’re good friends and I can get a few free drinks out of him). If you’re feeling adventurous, you can drive a little more down Fairfax and go to Little Ethiopia for authentic, vegetarian Ethiopian food. If you want to eat the most interesting gelato, go to Scoops – right off the Melrose exit from the 101. They have crazy flavors there and it’s so cool and underground that 99.9% of my friends don’t know about it.

NIGHTLIFE WORTH DRIVING OUT TO

I know George likes to chill and not really dance so I’m not going to list night clubs. I can find out what the hottest clubs are for you, but I really only know the underground places

The Little Temple Bar – go there on Thursdays for The Rootdown – really the only underground hip hop joint left in LA. You’ll LOVE the music here.

Firecracker – go there on Saturday nights for live, “free” (improvised) jazz downstairs, underground hip hop/funk/soul upstairs. It’s in the heart of Chinatown so you can go eat cheap, late night food after.

Rooftop bar at The Standard (Downtown Los Angeles) – check it out for the most beautiful view LA has to offer at night. I would only go for one drink because it’s pricey and the people there are pretty fake. Not your crowd at all. But the view is amazing.

All those bars in Silverlake/Los Feliz are great to go to. As you can see, it’s my favorite area in LA and it’s the cheapest you’ll get.

FOOD – rules of thumb and specific places to eat at

In-N-Out Burger – the best fast food burger that’ll make Big Macs taste like dog diarrhea. If you want to eat vegetarian, get the “grilled cheese.” Whatever burger you get, make sure you get it “animal style.” Those aren’t listed, but it’s on their secret menu. If you’re going to break your vegetarian habit just one time, this should be it. They’re only found in California, Nevada and Arizona (I hear the one in Arizona always has a 2 hour wait)

Sushi – the best sushi outside of Japan can be found in Los Angeles, and it’s the highest quality you can get for the money. Just go anywhere, really. I’d say Kabuki (it’s a chain) is the best bet for money. Sushi Mac is cheap but decent. Really, just go anywhere.

Japanese Food – go to Little Tokyo for them, but my favorite place is a Ramen shop called Santouka, that’s found in the Mitsuwa Japanese Grocery Store (you can drive here if you’re in the Venice Area..it’s in Culver City). It’s a chain that is straight from Tokyo and tastes just as good as the ones found in Tokyo. If you go, get the Salt Ramen. Insane!

Hawaiian Food – also, you can go to Rutt’s Hawaiian CafĂ© if you’re in the Venice area. Super cheap and huge portions. Any Hawaiian, I’d recommend getting the Spam Musubi (no matter what) as a little appetizer/snack.

Mexican Food – this is usually everyone’s favorite food here. If you see those little taco trucks on the side of the road, go there and get yourself some tacos/burritos! Carne Asada is marinated steak. Al Pastor is marinated pork. Those are your best bets. Just look for a bunch of Mexicans eating there – the more you see, the better, more authentic, and cheaper it is. White people are usually scared to go here, be careful when you go late at night, but in all honesty...people are just people. Don’t be scared of anyone.

Roscoe’s Chicken n Waffles – though I don’t really consider this a real soul food place, it’s very popular amongst black people that don’t really want to get real soul food or white people that want to be cool and go someplace “ghetto.” It’s a little pricer than you’d expect but they’re known for their fried chicken and waffles. It’s a good combination that’ll give you a stomach ache after. People really just go here just to say they go here. If you want real soul food, look for an M&M Soul Food, it’s a lot cheaper, but they’re all located in the ghetto. If you go to Roscoe’s I’d recommend the on Sunset and Gower (Hollywood/Silverlake area) or the one on Pico and La Brea (Fairfax area).

Chinese Food – you can get this anywhere, but the best Chinese food can be found in Monterey Park (5 minutes east of downtown, LA). Just go anywhere that you can’t read the sign and the people there are actually Chinese. As you can see, if you want ethnic food, go to where the ethnic people eat. If you go to ethnic places where white people eat, I guarantee you it’s not going to be as authentic and it’s going to be a lot more expensive. If you ever see Vietnamese restaurants, make sure you try the Pho’ (good noodle soup, usually very cheap) or the Bhan Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches that are cheap…many people that try it say it’s the best sandwich they’ve ever had).

Versailles – this is a Cuban restaurant that’s pretty good, very good if you like garlic. It’s not super authentic either (you can tell because White people go there) but it’s worth checking out for their garlic chicken. You can find them in Manhattan Beach, Hollywood, and Venice areas. The roasted, pulled pork is also tasty.

Pinkberry – I know Bulgaria’s national treasure is yogurt, so you have to try this! They’re everywhere (Venice, Hollywood, Los Feliz). It’s a frozen yogurt chain that’s growing as fast as Starbucks did. Very, very very good. Don’t get anything else but Pinkberry. Don’t get Starbucks, either. If you want another option – Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf is a better coffee chain. They’re known for their Ice Blended drinks and Tea Lattes. But if you can, avoid all those coffee chains – support the local businesses!

Really though, let me know what cuisine you’re interested in and I can recommend anything to you.

MUSIC – you can’t leave Los Angeles without seeing some live music. The best thing is to go to any cool coffee shop/newsstand/bookstore (in those cool areas) and pick up an LA Weekly and just thumb through the pages to see what’s going on. They get released every Thursday. If not, then I would just go onto going.com or ticketmaster.com to see who/what you’re interested in. If you don’t find anything worthwhile, just go onto the following places’ websites to see whose performing. Just get some of the band names, download a song or two, and then decide if they’re worth checking out. You will always get a good experience at these small venues:

The Troubadour (West Hollywood) or The Viper Room/Hotel Café - these places gets good talent before they ever get big. Very small, intimate space where you stand no further than 10 meters from the stage. A lot of great hip hop/indie bands come through here. THE TROUBADOUR IS THE BEST PLACE TO CATCH A SHOW.

The Temple Bar (Santa Monica or Silverlake) – they usually have old school hip hop here. Nothing major or impressive really, but sometimes good ones perform here.

The Avalon/El Rey Theatre/Orphean Theatre/The Music Box – good bands usually come through here. The place is a bit bigger but you can still at least see the performers. A lot of cool indie bands perform here. The Avalon spent a shitload of money on reengineering the acoustics of the place so the sound should be good.

Walt Disney Concert Hall – designed by the same person that did the Guggenheim (Frank Gehry). Beautiful to see, even if you’re only on the outside. Classical music performances here but, if you can, get “student rush” tickets for cheap. You have to go a few hours before, on the day of the performance and ask for these tickets. $40-100 tickets can go for as little as $10. If you don’t have a student ID, just make a fake one, you’re a designer!

Spaceland/The Echo (Silverlake area) – Good places to catch indie and hip hop also. Spaceland is free on Mondays. Good LA acts usually come through here first before they even make it to the Troubadour and then worldwide status. For example, Sea Wolf, The Postal Service, Rilo Kiley all made it through here, first. (download their songs to get a taste).

Let me know what you think or what you’re thinking of, I can suggest more stuff or tell you what not to do. Orange County is beautiful for their beaches also, but really, fuck Orange County….there’s no culture, art, or anything that will interest you two over there.

The big tourist places to check out are:

- Hollywood Walk of Fame

- Venice Board Walk

- Griffith Park Observatory

- LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art)

- MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art)

- Getty Center

- The Getty Villa (ancient Greek art, up on Pacific Coast Highway)

- Disneyland of course

Etc. etc…I don’t want to go into it too much but you catch the drift. Remember Vickey, these are only places where I would take you and George. Just real “under the radar,” underground stuff that a lot of Los Angeles natives know about. It’s a great city and a lot of people will never get the chance to experience stuff like that. Not even people that move here. Really though, you’ll need a rental car of some sort. It’s not worth spending your entire day traveling through LA on public transport. I only have a limited knowledge of New York, but I’ll do that for you soon enough.

Peace,


Roe

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

MARCH 17, 2008 - THE BURDEN OF BEING A WRITER

On train....Sofia, Bulgaria >> Belgrade, Serbia >>> Budapest, Hungary

Writers are just as lame as they are burdened. Maybe one begets the other; of which I'll explain later but right now I really just want to talk about the burden.

I've noticed that since I really started to invest in my writing that the more I write, the more my writing becomes relevant and the less relevant I become. I mean, I think everyone wants something interesting to say -- but writers, more or less out of obligation, take it one step further because they actualy have an audience. Oh my, it's such a redeeming predicament to be in; and my audience's eyes and attention validate me more than anything else.

Real quick...I'm on a train to Budapest, from Bulgaria just entered Serbia, sitting along in my 2nd class bunk and have 18 more hours till arrival. I'm going to make myself a little cocktail to chillax and maybe make this entry a little more interesting)

Dude, so anyway, as much as I appear to not give a fuck about what people think of me, I do have to weigh it, at least. Ok, what I'm saying is I don't give a fuck what people think of me so long as I stay relevant to the people that matter to me -- my audience. So, with that burden, I push myself to extremes and throw myself into ridiculous situations so that I'll have a story to tell. For example, when I had my surf accident I had three main thoughts after it happened:

1) Am I going to die?
2) I am going to be ugly.
3) This is going to make for a good story.

And with this Europe trip, I thought:
1) Fuck, I'm scared.
2) I am going to have a unique experience
3) I (as a writer) will produce an intimate read.
4) I (as a person) will lose my relevance to the reader.

Distance = Rate times Time

But whatever, I do it because I am granted (and grateful for) an audience. The hell, I'll exploit myself for a good chuckle or rolling of the eyes, right? This whole trip has been totally fun, adventurous and challenging; and I've already reached a lot of milestones in my self-development. Best bars, days in solitude, (after spending time in Turkey) letting go of the notion that all men with well-developed mustaches have shetland pony penises and earn their living in erotic entertainment. By the way, the last one did wonders for my self-esteem. And hopefully I'm making for a good story.

But that's the burden of a writer, and at the end of the day, all I will have is a collection of good stories. But the lameness of it, it's everywhere. It's in me thinking my thoughts and observations on life warrant, so much attention, that, it's worth people sidestepping their own thoughts to acknowledge mine. Writing is as lame as me, staring out the fucking train window right now, hoping to find inspiration through the thicket of trees or the grayed water. It's in my losing my job and spending the severence package in snow, sweaters, mayonnaise...on people's couches, not on people's minds, and not in people's pants VERSUS going to Thailand as an American citizen, that speaks Thai and loves Thai food...stumbling through sand, surfing in warm water, swimming in women Everyone I've met has said, "What the hell are you doing here in Bulgaria/Kiev/this shit when you can be in Thailand?"

I usually reply, "Shit, I live in Los Angeles, near the beach..you know those palm trees?"

slight pause...

"They're EVERYWHERE."


Though, they all make valid points and their arguments are seamless. I guess I try too hard, too often. To be me, I guess. I mean, for at least a good chunk, times and life have been difficult. So when they follow up with, "Why would you submit yourself to this? Why would you leave Los Angeles and come here?" To that, I answer,

"I'm here because I'm a writer."

Now tell me, how lame is that?

CITY POWER RANKINGS - SOFIA, BULGARIA

SOFIA, BULGARIA 9.2/10

Liveability 9.5/10
I'll tell you what -- I'm sitting at one of the major squares with a beer in my hand right now. It's about 77 degrees farenheit, the sun is Soviet strong (with the identical lack of progression) and the breeze is cucumber calm right now. How easy is it to live in Sofia? Just as easy as it is enjoyable. Due to recent developments in my travel plans I have only 484 hours to experience this city. Having experienced 24, I can confidentily say that this is my favorite city --- above NYC (so long as it's on a Western salary). Public transportation is available, thethe pizza here isa about $.90 for a huge ol' slice of geometric proportions, and...you can buy tofu! I'm staying at a dope one bedroom apartment (no living room but sizebale kitchen, downataris den that can be a living room/2nd bedroom and a decent bathroom) that costs 300 Euros a month. Hly shit is it affordable. It has those booze quenching kiosks that are found in Ukraine, you can drink in the streets....all that stuff is found here. I had a cnice lunch at a nice place (I'd say the equivalient of The Ivy in terms of ambiance and food quality) where I had a hugle ol' tasty Czech beer, Caesar salad (done properly but the dressing still had mayo), and a half rack of tender fall-apart with a fork for $8. Including tip. Thankfully, not includig diarrhea. I can easliy live here for 2-3 years.

Nightlife 8.5/10
Late night last call. Went to the coolest bar I've ever been to. You have to be in the know to experience the underground scene, which makes things that much more exclusive. I was also in a mainstream joint and they were playing some bonafide hip hop and the girls can groove. Big point off for a lack of live music. But you konw, to be fair, I really can't say shit like htat because it's not like any city I go to is going to have as large a market as NYC or LA. Also, the town is so enamored with hip hop that they missed the boat on Indie.

Culture 9.5/10
Hip Hop is big here in Sofia. I can say that pound for pound, it's bigger here than I've ever witnessed anywhere. They play it in shoestores, grocery stores, pharmacies, etc. I can hear it squeeling out of the most random earplugs on the bus; and of course, where there's hip hop, I can easily assimilate. There is some dope street art to be found everywhere; and some of them actually carry a message. There are a lot of youngsters around; but they don't wreck shop or anything. The skate and bmx culture is reminscent of Venice Beach.

People 9.3/10
Soviet beauty with Soviet attitude, but there is definitely a middle ground where you still get the cuteness and you get a people that speak English! In all fairness, I've been traveling through Budapest with an Aussie cat and he mentioned that the city is very un-English. It's just, to me, after going days in silence and NO interaction with strangers in what-the-fuck's-your-problem Ukraine; anything beyond "no" is a Shakespearean sonnet. And as hard as they appear, they are all very, very helpful people. They're not as warm and inviting as I found Turkish people to be, but they are edgy and have a certain coolness to them. Teenagers are everywhere but they're not rude or thuggity. The girls are pretty but the guys aren't anything special. Game the fuck on!

PROS
Drink kiosks, drinking in public, totally affordable, nearby mountains where you can go snowboarding (whole deal for $40), HIP HOP culture! Still unappealing to Westerners...which I find to be a GREAT thing. It's a great, small city to call home for a few years.

CONS
Soviet corruption. Lack of upward social mobility. Food can be more diverse.

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Some Random Club in Sofia

Some Random Club in Sofia
Some Random Club in Sofia,
originally uploaded by proefound.
Mainstream club that played KRS ONE, Run DMC, Rakim, Q-Tip, Ol Dirty Bastard.

Unheard of! People here really embrace hip hop culture. The girl closest to the camera, by the way, is byooooooteaful.

COOLEST BAR I'VE EVER BEEN TO

Obvious enough, I'm all about underground culture and random, obscure places. Sofia is home to a lot of crazy, truly really rarely, hidden bars. Surely enough, I entered what I deem to be the coolest (fucking) bar, ever. I was mad skeptical at first when Vickey and George started leading me down this weird passageway...















"Like, what the fuck? Looks like this is where convicted sex offenders live. Am I going to get raped?"
















"Fuck, ok, be gentle."

















"Holy shit, can I live here?"

...turns out the bar is truly hidden. And as you can see, it is only lit by candlelight. We were sitting at the bar, but right behind is a big, open room with a big upper deck. So you can see everyone while you're chilling, but it was mad eerie and loungy. I wanted to take more pictures, but the bartenders (these cute little girls) didn't allow them. The music was rare grooves, soul and breakbeats. The drinks were stiff.

This doesn't exist in the States. Fuck, this was the most impressive place I've ever been to. And again, only people in-the-know are privy to this. All word of mouth, no signs, no audible noise from the outside. Definitely a first date spot.

Vickey and George

Vickey and George
Vickey and George,
originally uploaded by proefound.
We smoked a jizzay at this park before we went out. It was schwag but it got me a headchange so that was dope.

Either way, in large quantities, you can get it for like $1/gram. Let's bake some edibles!